AS 91346 Annotated exemplars

This annotated exemplar is intended for teacher use only. Annotated exemplars are extracts of student evidence, with commentary, that explain key parts of a standard. These help teachers make assessment judgements at the grade boundaries.

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For Excellence, the student needs to demonstrate comprehensive understanding of advanced concepts used to make textile products.

This involves discussing why particular materials and construction techniques are used to create high-quality special features in textile products.

This student has discussed how the construction of high quality special feature seams will differ depending on the type of fabric and the desired finished effect. The focus is on French and lapped seams.

The discussion of French seams included how they are constructed (2), when they are used, and how they contribute to a high quality finish (3). The student discussed the use of French seams in garments where the fabric is delicate, sheer, and/or frays easily, when the inside of the garment can be on show, and when the garment might be washed a lot.

In contrast, the student discussed how lapped seams are ideal for bulky fabrics that do not fray (4). The student explains how they are constructed when using leather or suede (5). The discussion carries on with general construction methods (6) and variations of the seam to suit particular parts or types of garments (7) (8) (9) (10).

For a more secure Excellence, the student could have compared and contrasted the two different types of seams more explicitly. That is, instead of the discussion being about one seam and then the other, the two seams could have been compared and contrasted while focussing on a range of fabric types, parts of garments, and purposes of garments.

For Merit, the student needs to demonstrate in-depth understanding of advanced concepts used to make textile products.

This involves explaining how the construction of special features changes when using different types of textile materials.

This student has explained what a set-in sleeve is, and how it might lie flat or rise up, depending on the physical and functional attributes sought (1). The significance of notches was explained (2).

An explanation was given for how the gathering/easing of the sleeve is done. This includes how the length of the stitch and the number of rows depends on the weight and texture of the fabric (3). Pinning was presented as an alternative to gathering (4).

The student explained an alternative method for setting in the sleeve when working with fabrics that have little stretch (5). This included explaining why a second row of reinforcing stitches may be required (6).

The student also gave an explanation for how the finishing techniques might change depending on the fabric. The explanation included pressing and trimming, and neatening raw edges (7).

The student also explained how the construction of other special features changes when using different types of textile materials. The focus was on pockets.

To reach Excellence, the student could have focused more on different types of fabric, and how construction changes accordingly. A greater range of special features could have also been explored.

For Merit, the student needs to demonstrate in-depth understanding of advanced concepts used to make textile products. This involves explaining how the construction of special features changes when using different types of textile materials.

This student explained why in-seam pockets are inserted into garments (1) and how this is done (2). They explained how most fabrics benefit from the side seams being back stitched (3), and how top stitching (9) and the chosen fabric (11) can help achieve a quality finish.

The particular construction techniques used to insert inseam pockets into a garment made out of a heavy fabric was explained. This included pressing open side seams to counteract the bulk (4), bar tacking on either side of the pocket opening (5), and using a lighter weight fabric for the pocket (6).

Other types of textiles and suitable construction techniques were explained. This included adding stay tape to knitted stretch fabric to stabilise the pocket (7), and other stabilising and shaping techniques (11).

The student also explained how the construction of other types of special features changes when using different types of textiles. The focus was on different types of pockets (e.g. welt, accordion and inverted pleat).

For a more secure Merit, the student could have explained how the construction of a wider range of special features (i.e. beyond pockets) changes when using different types of textiles. This would have made it easier for the student to show the in-depth understanding required for this grade.

For Achieved, the student needs to demonstrate understanding of advanced concepts used to make textile products.

This involves:

• explaining how and why special features are used in textile products
• explaining how special features are constructed in a textile material
• explaining the requirements of quality finish of special features.

The student has explained how and why shirring is used in garments (1). Other special features that were explained include the back yoke and the front pockets that are common in jeans.

How the fly front is constructed was explained through the use of photos and annotations (2). The student also explained how to construct the other special features that are seen in jeans.

The student explained the requirements for ensuring a quality finish is achieved when inserting a fly front zip (3). An explanation is also given for how to achieve a quality finish for other special features of a pair of jeans.

To reach Merit, the student would need to explain how the construction of special features changes when using different types of fabrics. This may be easier to achieve if the student had chosen special features that were not so ubiquitous to jeans (which are generally made from a similar type of fabric).

For Achieved, the student needs to demonstrate understanding of advanced concepts used to make textile products.

This involves:

• explaining how and why special features are used in textile products
• explaining how special features are constructed in a textile material
• explaining the requirements of quality finish of special features.

The student has explained how and why shirring is used in garments (1). How and why other decorative special features such as embroidery and pin tucking were used was also explained.

How shirring is constructed was explained (2). The student also explained how to construct the other special features that they have focused on. This is mainly evidenced through text, with some photos included.

The student explained the requirements for ensuring a quality finish is achieved when shirring (3). An explanation was also given for how to achieve a quality finish for other special decorative features.

For a more secure Achieved, the student could have demonstrated their understanding of more advanced shirring special features (e.g. using cord elastic, using waffle, spaced, puffed, tucked etc). The explanations for constructing the special effects should be more detailed and precise than the example shown here.

For Achieved, the student needs to demonstrate understanding of advanced concepts used to make textile products.

This involves:

• explaining how and why special features are used in textile products
• explaining how special features are constructed in a textile material
• explaining the requirements of quality finish of special features.

The student has explained how and why welting (piping) is used in upholstery (1). An explanation is also given for how and why other special features such as zips under flaps and skirts on chairs are used.

The student explains how welting is constructed (2). An explanation is given for how to construct the other special features that they have focused on.

The student touched on how to ensure a quality finish to welting (3) and other special features.

To reach Achieved, the student could have explained other aspects of inserting the welting, for example how to go around corners, make curves, and join the ends.

Other requirements of a quality finish should have also been explained. This could include how to make the bias joins as invisible as possible, and highlighting the need to ensure that the stitching done to encase the cord is not visible after sewing the welting into the seam.