AS 91621 Annotated exemplars

This annotated exemplar is intended for teacher use only. Annotated exemplars are extracts of student evidence, with commentary, that explain key parts of a standard. These help teachers make assessment judgements at the grade boundaries.

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For Excellence, the student needs to efficiently implement complex procedures using textile materials to make a specified product.

This involves undertaking techniques, tests and processes in a manner that economises time, effort and materials.

The student has implemented complex procedures to make a gown while complying with health and safety regulations.

This required changing the characteristics of the materials by lining the bodice, managing special fabrics (e.g. sheer chiffon) and managing the inclusion of an invisible zipper, shaped waistband and gathered skirt.

The student has undertaken tests, techniques and processes with economy of time, effort and materials:

• Using the sewing plate and measuring devices to ensure accuracy and decrease need for unpicking (1).
• Trialling and editing the construction plan in advance to minimise time spent on tasks (2).
• Washing hands to avoid marking fabric and having to cut more (3).
• Devising the most efficient lay plan to save fabric, which was checked by the teacher (4).
• Regularly reviewing progress at milestone stages with the teacher (5).
• Using spare fabric for testing (6).
• Notches, marking and pinning techniques were used to avoid time wasted unpicking and ensure faultless construction (7).
• Using testing and feedback to inform the selection of a suitable type of zip for the opening (8).

The student also self-evaluated and reflected on their efficiency and ability to economise time and resources (9).

The assessor has attested to the students ability to efficiently implement complex procedures using textile materials to make a specified product (10). 

For Merit, the student needs to skillfully implement complex procedures using textile materials to make a specified product.

This involves showing independence and accuracy in applying the selected techniques, tests and processes.

The student has implemented complex procedures to make a lined and boned corset with zipper openings at both sides. This required carrying out procedures which involved joining materials with different properties, changing the characteristics of the materials, managing special fabrics and the inclusion of structural or style features.

The student has implemented complex procedures while complying with health and safety regulations.

The student has undertaken tests, techniques and processes with independence and accuracy:

• Trialling the selected techniques on a toile (1) beforehand.
• Fusing the fabric to create more structure and to prevent fabric shift.
• Using tacking stitches to temporarily hold the zips in place before machine stitching.
• Checking all pattern pieces were on the grain lines (2). 
• Carefully cutting notches in both outer fabric and lining to match pattern pieces perfectly (3).
• Trimming seam allowances and cutting ‘V’ notches for inward curved seams. 
  Pressing seams open as they were constructed (4).
• Stitching the boning through the centre of the lining seam (5) and checking to ensure the boning channels are evenly spaced with no shifting or misalignment, and that boning is consistent lengths.

The bodice was fitted before and after zip insertion to ensure size was accurate. 
Invisible zips opened in opposite directions to each other and stopped just  
below the top edge (6).

The finished corset fits perfectly, is symmetrical with no visible puckering, pulling or uneven edges (7).

The assessor has observed and recorded student safety and attested to the student’s independence and accuracy (8), alongside observations regarding why the work is not at Excellence level. 

For Excellence, evidence of efficiency of time, effort and materials is needed. For example, minimising distraction from cell phone and peers and labelling all work to prevent lost pattern pieces and recutting of material.  

For Merit, the student needs to skillfully implement complex procedures using textile materials to make a specified product.

This involves showing independence and accuracy in applying the selected techniques, tests and processes.

The student has implemented complex procedures to make pants with an elastic waist and side-lacing. This required carrying out procedures which involved joining materials with different properties, changing the characteristics of the materials, managing special fabrics and the inclusion of structural or style features.

The student has implemented complex procedures while complying with health and safety regulations (1). 
 
The student has undertaken tests, techniques and processes with independence and accuracy:

• Trialling three types of binding to ensure the feature of the eyelets met specifications (2).
• Trialling different machine feet to prevent stretch of the pleather when sewing (3).
• Exploring methods and refining measurements for insertion of multiple metal eyelets (4).
• Fittings and visual checks to ensure the trousers meet specifications (5).

The student has evaluated their own practices and attested to their independence and accuracy (6).

To secure the grade, additional specific details and photographs of how the student worked accurately when joining the pleather to the elastic at the waistband are required.  

A teacher comment confirms the grade and acknowledges the need for the student to address the accuracy of aspects of construction and finish of the trousers (7). 

For Achieved, the student needs to implement complex procedures using textile materials to make a specified product. 

This involves:

• trialling and using feedback to inform the selection of techniques to make the product to size and accurately reflect the style
• developing and applying an order of construction to make the product
• undertaking appropriate tests to demonstrate the final product meets  
  specifications
• applying techniques that comply with relevant health and safety regulations.

The student has implemented complex procedures to make a lined and quilted bomber jacket. This required carrying out procedures which involved joining materials with different properties, changing the characteristics of the materials using interfacing, managing special fabrics and the inclusion of structural or style features.

The student has trialled quilting methods to check fit and aesthetics. By testing quilting techniques on a sample panel and then creating a quilted mock-up of the jacket, the fit and style was fine-tuned before construction. Interfacing techniques on corduroy were also trialled to discover several key aspects related to the fabric’s structure, appearance and performance (1).

Feedback (2) from the quilting and interfacing trials was used to inform decisions (3) about the choice of techniques. A toile made from inexpensive fabric was constructed to inform the size, fit and construction details to ensure the product accurately reflects the style (4). This was all done prior to cutting into the corduroy fabric. 

A construction plan (5) has been developed and applied, with appropriate ongoing tests (6) and checks included. These tests, and the final test of the bomber jacket being worn by the end-user, are done to demonstrate the product meets the specifications of fit and to ensure that the jacket meets quality and durability standards (6).

Adhering to health and safety regulations (7) is shown throughout the evidence and is attested to by the assessor in the Assessment Schedule (not seen in this sample).

For Merit, the student could demonstrate further independence and precision in applying the selected techniques, tests and procedures. For example, the front yoke seams were misaligned and the zipper heights were uneven.

The teacher commented that while the student’s “testing was adequate to ensure the quilting met specifications, there were several construction issues that could have been resolved with further trialling of the techniques." 

For Achieved, the student needs to implement complex procedures using textile materials to make a specified product.

This involves:

• trialling and using feedback to inform the selection of techniques to make the product to size and accurately reflect the style
• developing and applying an order of construction to make the product
• undertaking appropriate tests to demonstrate the final product meets  
  specifications
• applying techniques that comply with relevant health and safety regulations.

The student has implemented complex procedures to make a lined, sleeveless denim jacket. This required carrying out procedures which involved changing the characteristics of the materials using interfacing (1), and managing the inclusion of structural or style features (2).

Trialling and feedback from the trials were used to inform decisions about the choice of techniques. A partial toile (3) was constructed (not seen in the evidence) to trial the lining procedures. 

A commercial construction plan (provided as a link in the work) was applied, with changes made as a result of the trialling. 

A final fitting (not shown) and a final test of the bomber jacket being worn by the end-user were done to demonstrate the product meets the specifications (4).

Adhering to health and safety regulations (5) is shown early in the evidence, and also attested to by the assessor in the Assessment Schedule.

To secure the grade, further evidence of trialling to inform the selection of techniques to make the product to size and accurately reflect the style is needed. For example the zipper insertion and collar construction. The inclusion of the welt pocket would also confirm that the choice of garment requires implementation of procedures that have sufficient complexity at this level.

Photos of the student adhering to Health and Safety would also strengthen the grade. 

For Achieved, the student needs to implement complex procedures using textile materials to make a specified product.

This involves:

• trialling and using feedback to inform the selection of techniques to make the product to size and accurately reflect the style
• developing and applying an order of construction to make the product
• undertaking appropriate tests to demonstrate the final product meets  
  specifications
• applying techniques that comply with relevant health and safety regulations.

The student has implemented complex procedures to make a lined, shirred and boned corset from satin. This required carrying out procedures which involved joining materials with different properties, changing the characteristics of the materials using interfacing, managing special fabrics and the inclusion of structural or style features.

An order of construction was applied to make the product (1), and techniques were applied that comply with health and safety (2).

The student has trialled the corset to refine the fit and style (3). 

The student has implemented complex procedures to make a specified product (4). However, Achieved requires evidence of trialling to inform the selection of techniques to make the product. For instance, conducting trials to identify the best interfacing and seaming techniques for the special fabric, the optimal method for inserting boning into the side seams and the most effective lacing techniques, as well as ensuring a smooth finish for the neckline and sleeves. Testing the shirring technique on a fabric with properties akin to satin is advisable to guide its application in the final project.

If further trials had been conducted, the evidence would have satisfied the criteria for Achieved. This would have also ensured that the final product was built to the specified standard and quality outlined in the brief.